When the enchanting rabbits, groundhogs, deer and birds started causing an unacceptable level of damage in the garden, I knew it was time for some conflict resolution and detective work.

The first thing to do was to decide what was doing the damage. Was the tip of the plant nipped off cleanly by a rabbit or groundhog or was it ragged from a deer nibble? When and for how long was the damage occurring? Was it to tender seedling or buds but not to tougher plants or opened flowers? Was the damage likely to occur again? Did it appear to be one animal passing through and sampling the vegetation or a whole family in residence?

After deciding "who done it, " quick action may mean the difference between cosmetic damage and the loss of valuable plant materials. Would a repellent or a barrier be best? Perhaps changing cultural practices, modifying the habitat or a combination of methods would be a better choice.

Repellents work by way of sight, sound, taste, smell or touch. Scarecrows and other moving objects, such as foil pans on strings or shiny Mylar tape fluttering from fences or poles, may frighten animals for a time. Chimes, bells or a small air horn may briefly deter a forager.

If the garden raider is a deer or raccoon at night, a motion detector combined with flashing lights or a moving water sprinkler would be more effective.

For homemade repellents, mix eggs with water and spray non-food plants, shrubs or. trees you wish to protect from deer. Hang garlic, hair or bars of soap in mesh bags to repel deer and rabbits from individual trees or plants. Spray garlic puree on plants to keep away almost any herbivore. Commercially available capsaicin sprayed on vegetation, even fruits and vegetables before the edible portions begin to develop, stops many nibblers. Use capsaicin or hot pepper cautiously and don't inhale the spray. Consider whether young children or pets might sample sprayed leaves.

Fencing is an effective way to keep animals away from a large area. A 2-foot-high barrier will keep out rabbits while a 4-foot fence will deter groundhogs and raccoons. To prevent burrowing, fencing should be dug 6 to 12 inches deep into the ground or bent outward in an L shape for 6 to 24 inches and covered with 6 to 12 inches of sod or soil. A mesh hardware cloth sleeve may protect a young tree from mice and rabbits. Base your decision on the type of animal that you want to bar.

Fending off deer requires a bigger commitment An 8- to10-foot fence is required. A barbed wire fence at ground level keeps deer from splaying their legs and wriggling under the fence. If local wildlife is eating more of your plants and trees than you wish, a professionally installed electric fence may be the solution if you don't have small children.

Is your problem birds that eat flower buds or fruit? Commercial netting available at garden supply stores lasts many seasons with a little care.

Cover the tree or bush right before the fruit ripens. Since a hungry bird is a determined eater, tie the netting's bottom or weight down its ends.

Would modifying the habitat ease problems? Moving or removing brush piles, cutting weeds near the garden, providing patches for wildlife away from the garden and cultivating plants that animals dislike may help. According to Robert Nuss, a professor in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences writing on a Web site, deer-resistant plant include fir, pine, spruce, catalpa, ginko, redbud, hawthorn, barberry, boxwood, lilac, yucca, iris, Oriental poppy, lupine, larkspur, foxglove. Narcissus and all alliums (onions and floweririg onions) are rejected by mice, voles, rabbits, groundhogs and deer. However, hungry animals will eat anything available.

By identifying the problem, the animal involved, and a solution, wildlife and gardens can be enjoyed.

Geraldine Russell of Centre Hall, a member ol the Centre County Master Gardener program, is especially interested in edible landscaping and spring bulbs.

For answers to your gardening questions, contact Master Gardeners by e-mail at centreext@psu.edu